Habit of the Cardmaker
- Date Depicted:
- 1975
1500 AD - 1699 AD - Notes:
- A delightful costume fantasy based on the cassock form. This cardmaker is from a series of engravings on the occupations of the day.
- Abstract:
- In a style largely determined by Louis XIV himself, separates are heavily decorated, arranged loosely, and worn with a variety of accessories. The most characteristic elements, in addition to the monumental wigs, are ribbons, lacy fabrics, large plumes, softly draped and ruffled shirts, and high-heeled shoes. The well-dressed man, sporting a tall, beribboned walking stick and wide-plumed hat, looks like a rooster out on a stroll. The doublet is cut into an open bolero. Sleeves are shortened to just above the elbow. The shirt, more important than ever before, is highly visible and full throughout. Made of white cambric, it is gathered into puffs down the arms, then casually bloused over petticoat breeches, which are full-gathered trousers. Ribbons, the favorite decoration, are massed, arranged in ladders at the sides and center front, or placed in rows along the horizontal lines of the garment. Petticoat breeches (or Rheingraves) are a divided skirt which is gathered at the waist or, simply, a gathered skirt. They are full, knee length, and normally over another pair of knee length breeches. Gradually they are replaced by knicker-like breeches which are fastened with buttons or buckles at the sides. A wide flounce of lace-edged fabric is just below the knee. The cassock, an important new garment, is generally adopted by 1680. From this time the history of men's dress is largely a record of its changes. First worn ever the shirt, the top and slightly flaring knee-length skirt are cut-in-one. It is collarless and fastens all the way down the front with a row of closely spaced buttons. Pockets are positioned a few inches from the hem; they are marked on the outside with flaps and buttons but actually entered from the inside. The short sleeves are turned back into a cuff and finished with buttons. By the 1690s the cassock skirt is more flared and stiffened. Pleats are set into the side back seams. The sleeves lengthen to below the elbow, retaining a wide cuff which is finished with buttons and buttonholes. Gradually the waistcoat comes into fashion. Similar in shape to the cassock, it is under it and a few inches shorter. A long row of buttons finish the front. Full capes remain popular.
- Variant Titles:
- Habit du Cartier
- Topics:
- Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC)
Prints -- France -- 17th century -- (YVRC) - Period/Style:
- Louis XIV style
- Culture:
- French
- Accession Number:
- 4391-060
- Genre:
- costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
prints: engravings (AAT) - Format:
- Image
- Content Type:
- Clothing & Accessories
Prints & Photographs - Rights:
- The use of this image may be subject to the copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) or to site license or other rights management terms and conditions. The person using the image is liable for any infringement.
- Access Restrictions:
- Yale Community Only
- Source Creator:
- Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
- Source Title:
- History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
- Source Created:
- New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
1975 - Call Number:
- GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
- Yale Collection:
- Visual Resources Collection
- Digital Collection:
- Visual Resources Collection
- Original Repository:
- New Haven, CT: Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Yale University
- OID:
- 10608616
- PID:
- digcoll:1798549