Notre-Dame (Chartres, France): Exterior: Royal Portal: Detail
- Published/Created:
- 1145-1155
- Date Depicted:
- 1975
500 AD - 1499 AD - Notes:
- A classic bliaud.
- Abstract:
- During this long transitional period, there is a gradual change in dress from the unfitted tunic to a graceful princess-line gown. The skirt widens and lengthens. The torso is more fitted. Sleeves are extended. In the early centuries the most common garments are degraded variations of the dalmatica and tunica tolaris. The kirtle appears in the twelfth century. A distinctive princess-line garment, it is modestly shaped to reveal the torso and has a flaring skirt. It pulls on over the head. Additional fit is achieved by lacing under the arms. It is cut from narrowly loomed pieces of fabric joined lengthwise. Gores can be added to the skirt for extra fullness. A chemise is under the kirtle, sometimes apparent through the laces. The bliaud is the first shapely gown. Confined to the gentry, it is over the kirtle and tightly shaped through the torso. Sleeves widen sharply below the elbow to full, long points. The neckline is V-shaped. A shaped corselet of leather or stretch fabric starts under the bust and fits low on the hips. Two elaborately jeweled belts are over the corselet, one encircling the hips and the other the waist. A buckle fastens the hip belt, the ends hanging in front to below the knees. The bliaud is often shorter than the kirtle and is finished with jeweled borders on all its edges.
- Topics:
- Sculpture -- France -- 12th century -- (YVRC)
- Period/Style:
- Romanesque
- Culture:
- French
- Accession Number:
- 4388-211
- Genre:
- churches: cathedrals (AAT)
costume (mode of fashion): clothing (AAT)
sculpture (AAT) - Format:
- Image
- Content Type:
- Clothing & Accessories
Sculptures, Models, & Architecture - Rights:
- The use of this image may be subject to the copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) or to site license or other rights management terms and conditions. The person using the image is liable for any infringement.
- Access Restrictions:
- Yale Community Only
- Source Creator:
- Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
- Source Title:
- History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 1
- Source Created:
- New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
1975 - Call Number:
- GT513 +B87 1 (LC)
- Yale Collection:
- Visual Resources Collection
- Digital Collection:
- Visual Resources Collection
- OID:
- 10542907
- PID:
- digcoll:1834809