Portinari Altarpiece: Right wing

Creator:
Goes, Hugo van der, ca. 1440-1482
Published/Created:
ca. 1475
Date Depicted:
1975
500 AD - 1499 AD
Materials:
oil on wood
Notes:
The kneeling figure is in the modified court houppelande. A low and very open V-shaped necklne has a colar faced in fur. Sleeves are long and tight, ending in a funnel shape over the hands.
Abstract:
The houppelande is the important garment of the period. For men as well as women, it is a long tent-shaped gown. Pulled on over the head, it is belted high, and the extra fullness is pleated into pipelike folds which are centered at the front and back. Classically a bottleneck collar is shaped to fit high in back and buttons tightly under the chin. Occasionally the bottle­neck is unbuttoned, forming a low, flat collar. Sleeves are long, funnel shaped, and very full. Even when an arm is raised to a normal level, the back of the sleeve hangs in a straight line. Every conceivable edge of the garment, including accessories, is dagged, scalloped, or foliated. For court dress there is a variation of the classic houppelande. The neckline has deep, wide, and V-shaped revers which meet at a high-belted waist. The revers are faced in contrasting fabric or fur. Sleeves are long and tight, falling over the top of the hands. The skirt is quite long and has a train. The court houppelande is the first gown to have the bodice and skirt cut separately.
Topics:
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC)
Painting -- Netherlands -- 15th century -- (YVRC)
Period/Style:
Gothic (Medieval)
Culture:
Netherlandish
Accession Number:
4389-105
Genre:
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
paintings (AAT)
Format:
Image
Content Type:
Clothing & Accessories
Paintings & Drawings
Rights:
The use of this image may be subject to the copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) or to site license or other rights management terms and conditions. The person using the image is liable for any infringement.
Access Restrictions:
Yale Community Only
Source Creator:
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
Source Title:
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 2
Source Created:
New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
1975
Call Number:
GT513 +B87 2 (LC)
Orbis Barcode:
39002051938489
Yale Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Digital Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Original Repository:
Florence, Italy: Galleria degli Uffizi
OID:
10596413
PID:
digcoll:1841105