Mary FitzAlan, Duchess of Norfolk

Creator:

Eworth, Hans, ca. 1525-after 1578

Published/Created:

ca. 1555

Date Depicted:

1975
1500 AD - 1699 AD

Notes:

The crescent headdress squared off at the crown. Inner sleeves and underskirt are made of the same fabric, normally a brocade. The bodice and overskirt are in plain fabric. A partlet fills in the arched neckline, which is edged in a small ruffle. The pleated overskirt is rigid in shape.

Abstract:

The pedimental headdress, also known as the kennel or gable, is the classic headdress of the period. No hair is visible when it is worn. Most popular in England, it is made by covering the hair with a fold of transparent linen, then add­ing a gold and jeweled frontal which is shaped like a pediment. A black velvet bag cap encloses the hair in back. A linen version of the headdress appears in other countries. In Germany and the Netherlands, a linen veil also covers the chin. The crescent or horseshoe headdress, which shows the hair in front, is an informal and softer version of the pedimental headdress. Shaped like a crescent, it is stiffly ornamented with jewels and gold. A bag cap covers the hair in back. A popular hat in Germany has a stiff, half-­dome structure with fine linen stretched over it. For women there are linen versions of the coif and beret, with or without lappets. Unmarried women are in long hair, usually bound in a circlet.

Topics:

Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC)
Painting -- Flanders -- 16th century -- (YVRC)

Period/Style:

Reformation

Culture:

Flemish

Accession Number:

4390-001

Genre:

costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
paintings (AAT)

Format:

Image

Content Type:

Clothing & Accessories
Paintings & Drawings

Rights:

The use of this image may be subject to the copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) or to site license or other rights management terms and conditions. The person using the image is liable for any infringement.

Access Restrictions:

Yale Community Only

Related Exhibit or Resource:

Reformation (Women): 1500-1550: Hair and Headdresses

Source Creator:

Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen

Source Title:

History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 3

Source Created:

New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
1975

Call Number:

GT513 +B87 3 (LC)

Orbis Barcode:

39002051938471

Yale Collection:

Visual Resources Collection

Digital Collection:

Visual Resources Collection

Original Repository:

Private Collection

OID:

10600347

PID:

digcoll:1847168